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How To Buy A Used Car:
Peach or Lemon?
 

Introduction

 

Most consumers want to know how to buy the car of their choice at the best possible price.

Many people feel that car payments are an unavoidable fact of life, and that they might as well buy a newer car than an older one. However, there are some advantages as well as some pitfalls to be avoided when shopping for a used car.

With improvements in the quality of automobiles over the years, a well-maintained car should remain reliable for at least 10 years and 100,000 miles. The US Department of Transportation reports the average life span of a vehicle is 12 years or 128,500 miles. Surveys have shown that, on the average, a person trades in or sells a car when it is only 4 1/2 years old with just 41,000 miles on it.

That leaves a lot of good cars out there with plenty of life left in them. If you are looking for a new model, buying a used car of the same style, only a couple of years old, can really be a good deal. The biggest percentage (approximately 20 percent) of a new car's value is lost in the first year of ownership. Accessories such as expensive stereo systems, power assists and convenience options are far less a factor in resale pricing.

In addition, by the time a vehicle is a couple of years old, even minor problems should have been discovered and corrected.

Pricing a Used Car

With the average price of a new car increasing every year, it is not surprising that the fastest growing segment of the auto industry is the used car market. In the past decade, used cars have become increasingly better values. Buying a car that is just a year or two old can save thousands of dollars over the price of a new model, especially as the price of new cars keeps increasing.

Decide on the year, make, model and options you desire on the vehicle. Do you need a family vehicle or an economical model for a college student? Also, decide what accessories you need or would like to have. Once you have decided on a specific model, it is a good idea to have a second or third choice in mind.

Consumers Reports publishes excellent information on both new and used cars, to include maintenance and repair information. Narrow your choices of vehicles as much as possible. Pay attention to:

  • visibility,
  • safety features,
  • comfort,
  • ride and
  • other items of importance.

To check the "recall record" of a vehicle, call the US Department of Transportation Auto Safety Hotline at (800) 424-9393. They will tell you if a car model has ever been recalled and send you information concerning that recall.

In addition, via the Internet, you can obtain recall or technical service bulletins on vehicles at http://www.alldata.tsb.com.

Price Guides

A variety of price guides are used by lenders, dealers and individuals to determine the value of used cars. Check the N.A.D.A. (National Automotive Dealers Association) Official Used Car Guide, Southeastern Edition, for the book value on your trade-in.

This book also can be found in public libraries, local banks and credit unions. It is published monthly by the NADA and provides average trade-in, wholesale, loan and retail prices for nearly every car sold in the last 7 years.

Such books are not meant to provide a definitive price but to serve as a reference point for negotiating with the seller. This information can be obtained through the reference section of your public library at no cost or there are services that provide invoice prices for a fee.

Check the classified ads in the local newspaper to determine what advertisers in your area are asking for the type of car you want. The difference between wholesale and retail value will be your bargaining range.

Financing/Insurance

Check with local banks and credit unions for financing in order to make comparisons with dealer financing. Be sure to determine the amount that the bank or credit union will finance for a specific model. Also consider obtaining preapproved credit, which would eliminate dealer pressure on the purchase of a vehicle.

Check with your insurance company for a quote on the vehicle you want to purchase. Can you afford to pay insurance and car payments? Also be sure to allow a little "extra" in your budget for unexpected repairs.

Check your local Better Business Bureau, Consumer Affairs Office, and the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (1-800-435-7352) for information on local automobile dealerships.

Make sure the dealers are licensed by the Division of Motor Vehicles. Ask to what professional associations they belong (Florida Independent Automobile Dealers Association, Chamber of Commerce, etc.). How long has the dealership been in business?

Outside of Car

Look at the vehicle during the daytime as darkness may hide problems. Do not look at vehicles in the rain, which hides nicks and scratches, as well as making thin, worn paint look slick. Be sure to concentrate on big defects and not minor repairs that can be made easily and inexpensively.

Prepare a checklist for both the interior and exterior of the vehicle, as well as those items to test while driving. Take a general look around the outside of the car. A very common practice is to have the car detailed to increase its appeal. Usually this includes a thorough cleaning inside and out, waxing and the repair of minor cosmetic items which can hide abuse or "wear and tear".

Examine both sides of the car from a distance (both front and back). Look for ripples, waves, poorly fitted panels and mismatched colors, all of which may indicate that body work may have been done. Look for dents or rust around the bottom of the doors and fenders. Bubbles along molding or chrome indicates rust underneath. Also look under the vehicle for rust as well. If the rust has gone through the metal, you could be looking at major repairs.

Check for welding spots on the frame which may indicate a serious accident or repairs. Open and close the doors, hood, trunk or hatchback. Be sure they fit and are easy to close without slamming, sagging or sticking.

Conditions noted previously may indicate that the car was wrecked, poorly kept, or has been driven excessive miles. Stand back approximately 10 to 15 feet from the car and see if the car is level. If one corner seems lower than the others, it suggests a broken spring or other chassis or suspension problem.

Check the shocks by pushing down on each corner of the car and letting go. Your car should bounce upward only once and then settle back to its original position. If the car bounces several times, new shocks may be needed.

Check the tires. They should be in good shape without sidewall cracks. Uneven tire wear may indicate improper wheel alignment, tired shocks or worn front end components. In addition, check the inside of the tires for brake fluid leakage (indicating leaking wheel cylinders).

Look under the car for oil spots, or leaks from the transmission, power steering or shock absorbers. Open the hood and check belts and hoses for cracks or wear. Remove the radiator cap. The coolant should be a clean, greenish (or blue or yellow, depending on brand of coolant used) color. Brown sludge inside the radiator neck may indicate poor maintenance.

Pull out the oil dipstick. If the oil is gummy or grayish, the engine might have serious problems. If there is a black buildup near the top of the dipstick, smell it. A burnt smell indicates that the engine or transmission has been run hot. The automatic transmission fluid should be clear and reddish in color, not brown or black. A burnt smell or low fluid level indicates neglect.

Be sure and check the fluid level in the master cylinder as well. If the fluid level is low, check for leaks and have brake pads checked. Look inside the trunk. Make sure there is an inflated spare tire, a jack and a lug wrench.

Inside of Car

The interior can give you a good idea of the overall condition and how well the entire car has been maintained.

Check the mileage to be sure the car has not been used too much for the price being asked. Today's cars average approximately 12,000 miles per year. In addition, compare the service stickers on the door jamb or under the hood to see if the recorded mileage is consistent with the odometer reading. It is possible to obtain a history of service as well, depending on where the vehicle was serviced.

Check the condition of the seats, belts and carpeting. Lap belts and shoulder harnesses should be in good shape with no rips, tears or frayed webbing. The upholstery should be clean with no large rips or cracks.

Check the windows to see if they open and close easily. Manual windows should crank smoothly. Power windows should not hesitate. All glass should be free from serious cracks or scratches.

Look at the brake, accelerator and clutch. These pedals should work smoothly without strange noises or binding. Check all exterior lights and flashers on the car to ensure they are operating properly. Start the engine and check the warning lights and gauges as well as all the accessories to make sure they work. Make certain that the air conditioning blows very cold air.

Check the glove box for the owner's manual. It contains maintenance information and important data on engine tuning, fluid capacities and replacement parts.

A used car does not depreciate as rapidly as it did when it was first driven from a dealership brand new. However, it is possible to get someone else's "lemon". Be aware of hidden and extra costs, such as rustproofing or extended warranties that you may not want.

Other common add-ons include:

  • charges for processing the paperwork involved in a sale known as conveyance fees and
  • credit insurance which will pay off your loan should you die or become disabled. Before purchasing, check your coverage under existing policies you already have. You cannot be forced to purchase credit insurance as a prerequisite to securing a loan. Some dealers may try to include an advertising surcharge after the offer has been accepted. This charge represents the dealer's participation in national or regional advertising and is already built into the base price of the vehicle.

Extended warranties are generally offered by manufacturers to cover major drivetrain parts (engine, transaxle, transmission, etc.) at an extra cost. Some of these warranties may include a deductible that is paid by the owner. Service contracts and "wraparound" warranties are offered by manufacturers and warranty companies. They generally cover repairs for a longer period than the manufacturer's drivetrain warranties. They operate like an insurance policy and are regulated as such in Florida. For information on service contracts, check with the Florida Department of Insurance at 1-800-342-2762.

Do not be afraid to take up the salespersons' time. Be sure to stay in control and do not let anyone talk you into buying a vehicle you do not want. Likewise, do not be afraid to walk away, especially if "the deal won't be there tomorrow". If it sounds to good to be true, it generally is. Shop during daylight hours in order to thoroughly inspect the vehicle and take a test drive. Be sure to drive the car under a variety of conditions, such as hills, highways and in stop-and-go traffic. This should be a fairly extensive drive, not just a drive around the block.

A car's good points or problems are often apparent after a few miles. If the engine was warm when you arrived to look at the car, it may mean the seller has been running it to hide starting difficulties.

Drive Test

Start the engine and press down on the brake. The brake pedal should go down only an inch or two and should feel firm and solid, not spongy. Press down on the brakes for about a minute. If the pedal sinks slowly, there may be a leak in the master cylinder. As the engine warms up, listen for any noises such as knocks, ticking and rattles, which could indicate engine problems. Next, put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Look in the rear view mirror to see if there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust. If there is a lot of white or bluish smoke, the engine may need an overhaul.

At idle, the engine should be smooth and quiet. Punch the gas pedal to see if the engine responds without hesitation and then returns to normal idle. When first starting out, drive slowly to get the feel of the car. The automatic transmission should shift smoothly without jerking, slipping or hesitating. A manual transmission should shift smoothly between gears without grinding. The clutch should engage and disengage smoothly without grabbing or chattering and don't forget to make sure the reverse works. Drive on a flat, smooth road and lift your hands slightly from the wheel. The car should track straight and be stable without vibration. If the car pulls in either direction or "shimmies", a front end alignment or other front end repairs may be necessary.

To test the brakes, accelerate to 30 to 40 miles per hour. Make sure there are no cars behind you, then step hard on the brake pedal, but do not lock the wheels. The brakes should grab evenly and the car should slow down in a straight line. If the car pulls to the left or right, it indicates the need for brake adjustment or a system rebuild. A grinding noise indicates badly worn pads or linings. Drive at 35 miles per hour and listen for any unusual noises. If you hear a whining sound from the rear-end, it may need replacing.

Next, accelerate to 45 miles per hour. If the front end shakes or vibrates, the tires probably need balancing. Drive quickly over a rough road and listen for any loud squeaks or rattles. If the car bounces or bangs over small bumps, the shock absorbers may be worn and need replacing. After you have driven the car for a while, check the temperature gauge to see if it shows a high reading or if the temperature warning light (be sure this works!) comes on. These are signs of trouble with the cooling system and they can be very expensive.

To test engine response, accelerate hard on an empty road. The car should respond immediately. Back off and hit the gas again. There should be no hesitation or smoke from the car. The engine should accelerate smoothly with no strange noises. You may want to find a steep hill to check the engine's power. If there is a significant loss in power while climbing, the car may need an overhaul or a tune-up. While you're on the hill, test out the hand brake to make sure that it holds the car. When you are through with the test drive, it's a good idea to turn off the car for a minute or two. Then restart the engine to see how well it starts when hot. Check again for leaks under the hood and beneath the car. Some leaks may only appear after driving. It's also a good idea to check the tailpipe. An engine that is burning oil will leave a black, sooty oil deposit. A white, powdery residue usually means good fuel combustion.

Odometer Fraud

Is the physical condition of the car consistent with the mileage on the odometer? The odometer reading is an accepted means of determining the dollar value of a motor vehicle. If the vehicle is in exceptionally good condition, perhaps items were replaced due to excessive wear. Also look for scratches on the odometer/dashboard, misaligned digits, digits that stick or an odometer that fits loosely. Any of these may indicate odometer tampering.

If you suspect that the odometer has been rolled back on a vehicle offered for sale, contact your local law enforcement agency or the DMV. If you suspect odometer fraud has occurred with a vehicle you have already purchased, the DMV can assist you in obtaining a record of all previous Florida owners and odometer statements from the dealers involved. If your suspicions are confirmed, you will need to retain an attorney in order to file suit against the violator. Due to the importance of the odometer reading in determining the value and condition of a vehicle, state and federal laws have been enacted making it illegal to tamper with a vehicle's odometer. Under the law it is illegal to:

  • Disconnect an odometer.
  • Turn back an odometer.
  • Drive with a disconnected or nonfunctional odometer.

It is a violation for anyone (dealer or individual) to sell a vehicle without providing a written statement of the actual mileage at the time of transfer. Exemptions from odometer disclosure include vehicles which:

  • Are 10 years old or older.
  • Have a GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of more than 16,000 pounds.
  • Are not self-propelled.

 

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